01.06.2011 - 01.06.2011
Walking today is great. I can't believe how lucky I've been to have no terrible blisters, no back pain, leg pain, or anything! It's even difficult to stop walking sometimes. It sounds ridiculous, but you get into a rhythm and you think 'yes, OK, I'm fine with this I can just keep going and never stop.' But then, when you finally do stop and your muscles cool down it can be a bit painful!
I have now been told by three different Germans along the way to avoid eating salads. Ten people have died in Germany from eating Spanish cucumbers and when they talk about it it's in grave worried whispers. I think it's kind of exciting hearing the mystery unfold – as the little morsels of gossip appear on the Camino days after their publication in newspapers. I'm not about to stop eating salads, or cucumbers.
Today I have stopped in Granon, where there is the most fantastic little albergue in the church tower. We sleep on bedrolls spread out on the floor, there are no pillows and a fantastic friendly atmosphere. There is no charge at the albergue here, and breakfast and dinner are included – they only ask for a donation. Albergues like this one are called donativo albergues and they have the best atmosphere of any on the Camino. The sign above the donation basket says “Give what you can, or take what you need.” The church is beautiful, tiny windows let light in through the a-frame roof and a cosy living space is full of pellegrinos who mill about making coffee and fruit tea, writing journals, talking and exchanging foot massages.